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Broadway Tower History
 
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Rising majestically from the edge of Fish Hill is Broadway Tower, an icon of the Cotswolds region of England. Built around 1799 at the instruction of the Earl of Coventry it became an instant landmark and has been featured in sketches, paintings, postcards and posters ever since. If there was an official list of the most photogenic buildings in England then Broadway Tower would definitely be in the top ten.

ICON OF ENGLAND (1799 - 2011)

Possibly it's the colour of the stone against a blue sky, maybe it's the wonderful angles from which it can be viewed or perhaps it's the architecture of the building itself but it's almost impossible to take a bad photograph of Broadway Tower. Maybe this shouldn't be surprising as it was built as a folly and designed to look good from the start. In a age when people largely had to make their own entertainment, wealthy landowners often spent vast amounts of money converting their gardens and estates into the 18th century equivalents of theme parks. Towers, statues, manmade caves, mazes, waterfalls, grottos and copies of buildings ranging from Roman temples to ruined gothic castles were positioned within carefully contrived landscapes to create a sense visual romance for their owners and for the entertainment of their guests.

THE EARL'S SAXON FOLLY (1799 - 1809)

Sir George William, The Sixth Earl of Coventry, inherited his title and the Croome Estate in 1751. Ten years later he purchased a parcel of land adjacent to Fish Hill (Beacon Hill), the second highest point in the Cotswolds and overlooking the picturesque town of Broadway to the northwest and Moreton-in-Marsh to the southeast. It was at this time that he established the Springhill estate and built a country house 2.5 kilometres to the south. In 1771 the common land, where the tower is today, was fenced in and became part of the Springhill Estate, Some years later Sir George commissioned Capability Brown to conceive an ornamental tower for the hill and James Wyatt, who was already well-known and trusted by Sir George, was appointed to assist with the design and construction in 1794. The most likely date for the completion of the tower is 1799 but various records and accounts suggest that it may have been finished as early as 1797 or as late as 1800AD.

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There are several legends regarding the origins of Broadway Tower. The most popular local myth is that it was built at the whim of Lady Barbara, the second wife of the Earl who wanted to see if a beacon fire on Fish Hill could be seen at her Worcestershire home, Croome Park, some 24 kilometres (15 miles) away. The more probable origin of this story is that on the 11th / 12th of October 1997 a great bonfire was lit on the top of same hill, near to where the tower is today, to celebrate the British Royal Navy's defeat of the Dutch (Batavian) Navy at the Battle of Camperdown. The tower was constructed by the Earl to celebrate this victory.Another account is that the tower was built so that a watchman could light a fire at the top to alert the servants at the Earl's Croome Estate that the Coventry family were on their way home from Springhill and had just passed by.Some stories even suggest that the tower was built at the insistence of Lady Barbara, the Earl's wife, so that she could study the stars in the company of a young and handsome astronomer. Whatever the reality of its origins the Springhill Tower was created as a Saxon tower although its design is clearly Norman. This may have been to honour King George III who was of Hanoverian descent and thus from from Lower Saxony.

TROUBLE AT THE TOP (1809 -1819)

Sir William George, Earl of Coventry died in 1809 and his estates were divided between his children. John Coventry, his second son, seems to have acquired Springhill but did little to maintain the tower possibly due to a shortage of funds. Research suggests that in 1819 he sold, or maybe even gave, the land and the tower to the neighbouring estate of Middle Hill House that had recently be inherited by Thomas Phillips Esq.

 
The Beacon of Broadway Tower

Reproduction photograph of what the Broadway beacon would have looked like when it was lit to alert the servants of the Croome Estate. (C) P Vincent

BIBLIOMANIA & BETRAYAL (1819 - 1864)

By the time he inherited Middle Hill Estate in 1818 Thomas Phillipps was already well known as a bibliophile; a person who compulsively collects books and manuscripts. Had there been a local psychiatrist in the early 19th century he would have surely diagnosed Sir Thomas as an Obsessive Habitual Hoarder. Today he is remembered as the man who assembled the largest collection of privately owned books in the world, an achievement which has afforded him a unique if eccentric place in British history.

The obsession of Thomas Phillipps had been noticed by his father who correctly predicted that his son was likely to spend all the family wealth on his obsession and so structured his will to ensure that while Thomas would inherit the Middle Hill Estate and other properties he could not sell or mortgage them to raise additional funds. In fact, he wisely left them to his grandchildren. Perhaps because of this decision he also made it clear that he disapproved of his son's choice of future wife. Young Thomas had to wait until after the death of his father in 1818 before he could marry Henrietta Elizabeth Molyneux in 1819. She was the daughter of Major General Thomas Molyneux who used his connections with the Duke of Beaufort to ensure that Thomas Phillipps was elevated to a Baronet in 1820. Henrietta soon gave birth to three daughters. The first to be born in 1819 was named Henrietta after her mother. She would one day inherit the estate and with it, Broadway Tower.

By now married, wealthy and a Baronet, Sir Thomas deeply desired to copy and preserve his growing collection and employed the services of Mr J. A. Gilmour of Salisbury. By 1821 he was already spending more than he could afford and his Middle Hill House was becoming overcrowded with his collection. Sir Thomas also wished to set up his own printing press so as to be independent of private printers. He desperately needed a place for the new machinery and a compliant printer to do the work. The solution was simple - use the tower.


A Gargoyle of Broadway Tower   Example of the Middle Hill Press
Broadway Tower Gargoyle   Example of the Middle Hill Press
By 1822 Sir Thomas Phillipps had recruited Mr Adolphus Brightley to undertake the reproduction of manuscripts and the production of catalogues. Brightly and his sister arrived in August 1822 but were horrified to discover that Broadway Tower was in a very poor state and that it urgently need restoration and repair. It would seem that he felt 'wretchedly deceived' by Sir Thomas as he had be expecting a moderately comfortable place in which to live and work.

A display within Broadway Tower describes how the condition of the widows was so bad that they allowed rain to flood every room and that this had caused plaster on both the walls and ceiling to collapse. Even worse, as far as Brightly was concerned, the tower was already occupied by "the poorest class of beings" who simply refused to leave. From this description one must assume that they were either homeless squatters or impoverished farm workers.

Brightley was trapped. He had already spent £148.00, a lot of money back then, on new printing equipment and was therefore short of money. He optimistically sent his bill to Sir Thomas not realising that the Baronet was also already in debt. It seems that at least some money must have been forthcoming and two rooms were vacated for Brightley's use. One as an office and one for his living quarters. Within a month the unwanted tenants had departed and some repairs must have been carried out because he soon described the living at the tower as 'the most delightful situation that one can imagine'.

Brightley's first work was printed in 1822 shortly after he arrived and is a history of Wiltshire printed in two parts and entitled 'The Monumental Inscriptions in the County of Wilts'. It has a woodcut picture of Broadway Tower (Turris Lativiensi), and the Middle Hill publisher's description in Latin: "Typis Medio Montanis in Turre Lativiensi, Adolphus Brightl(e)y excudit. 1822. The Latin roughly translates as Middle Hill Press of (in) Broadway Tower by Adolphus Brightly.

Brightley stayed with Sir Thomas for several years but disagreements over editing and a general lack of payment saw them part ways in 1826. A long list of printers followed until Sir Phillips met and employed James (Jacobus) Rogers who started with him in 1847 and remained until at least 1864.

During 1839 Sir Thomas Phillipps met James Orchard Halliwell, a young undergraduate student from Cambridge University. The two men had much in common. Both had come from wealthy middle class backgrounds and both had graduated from leading colleges, Phillips from University College, Oxford and Halliwell from Trinity College, Cambridge. They also shared a passion for rare books and manuscripts which they started collecting whilst still young. While staying at Middle Hill, Halliwell met and fell in love with Henrietta, the eldest daughter of Sir Thomas. At first Sir Thomas encouraged the relationship believing that here might be young man worthy of marrying his daughter and inheriting the estate that had been bequeathed to her by a grandfather who died before she was even born. Biographers and historians still debate what exactly happened next . It would appear that Halliwell proposed marriage to Henrietta and at first Sir Thomas was supportive. However, although wealthy in terms of assets and the value of his near priceless collection, he was also in debt and suggested to Halliwell's father that he should share the cost of providing for the future of the young couple. It was a terrible breach of etiquette. James Halliwell was not the eldest son and therefore not entitled to the allowance that Sir Thomas had in mind. In addition, Halliwell senior was offended that Sir Thomas appeared not to value his daughter enough to provide for her as he should. Halliwell senior reject the proposal. Overnight sir Thomas turned on his future son-in-law and demanded that the relationship should end. The couple had no choice but elope and were married in Broadway church on the 9th August 1842. Sir Thomas never forgave his daughter and reviled the man who had been his friend. It was around this time that Halliwell was accused of stealing manuscripts from Trinity College whilst a student there. Later Sir Thomas would claim that this was the reason for his opposition to the marriage. Supporters of Halliwell countered by suggesting that Sir Thomas himself may have had a hand in fuelling the rumours and accusations. As recently as November 2010 Bonham's the auctioneers advertised 'papers and documents' one of which was described as: "The printed version of the anonymous letter received by Phillipps in August 1842, blackening the name of J. O. Halliwell." Some scholars may wonder whether Phillipps himself prepared the letter and used his printing press to disseminate copies.

The Porthole Window of Broadway Tower  
Broadway Tower Porthole Window   James Halliwell-Phillips

Shortly after the marriage of his daughter Sir Phillipps married his second wife Elizabeth Mansel. Some historians believe that this was in an attempt to father a son who would then take precedence over his daughter and prevent Halliwell inheriting Middle Hill Estate. If this was the case then he was unsuccessful.

During the 1850's Sir Thomas grew obsessive about what should happen to his collection after his death but his attempts to forge an alliance with either the British Museum or the Oxford Universities failed after both institutions felt that that couldn't concede to his conditions. He continued to discredit James Halliwell whenever he could and refused to forgive his daughter.

In 1864, and in a bid to ensure that Halliwell would not inherit his collection as part of the furnishings of Middle Hill Estate Sir Thomas relocated to a larger property, Thirlestaine House, in Cheltenham. It's claimed that it took two years to transfer all the books and manuscripts. Middle Hill Estate and Broadway Tower were already in a poor condition by the time he left and he seems to have deliberately let them deteriorate further to spite Henrietta and James Halliwell.

He died on the 6th February 1872 and left Thirlestaine House and its contents, including 60,000 manuscripts and 30,000 books, in trust for his youngest daughter, Katherine. The Halliwell family and all Roman Catholics were to be banned from ever entering the library which was to remain intact. Years later in 1885 Katherine's descendents overturned the conditions of the will and began to sell off the collection. Thousands of rare and priceless books were lost to British museums and libraries as international buyers vied for his collection.

GLOVES, PRE-RAPHAELITES & CONFUSION (1864 - 1878) #556E8D

When Sir Thomas Phillipps abandoned Middle Hill house for Thirlestaine in 1864 the printing press went with him and Broadway Tower was empty once more although an obscure record suggests that it was briefly used by glove makers until 1866.

Little did Sir Thomas know, or for that matter care, but Broadway Tower was about to be the catalyst for one of the most important developments in the preservation of British heritage.

In the next section: The Pre-Raphaelites, William Morris and the preservation of ancient buildings, Shakespeare and the Industrialists, Enterprise at Tower Hill Farm, War and tragedy, the nuclear bunker, A gift rejected and the creation of a country park (coming soon)

         
  Destination Category:
Historic building / Tower
    Closest Sat Nav Postcode:
WR12 7LB
    Email:
info@broadwaytower.co.uk

Physical Address:

Broadway Tower & Country Park
Middle Hill
Broadway
Worcestershire
England
United Kingdom

Google Earth Coordinates:
52°38'46.30"N 0°37'22.86"W
Telephone:
+44 (0) 1386 852 390
Full Access:
Entry Fee Applies
Fax:
Onsite Parking:
Yes
Website:
Click Here for official website
Visibillity from Public Road /s:
Good
Photography:
Unrestricted
  Overall Visitor Review:
Fascinating History
  Entrance Fee:
Yes - To interior of tower only
   
Location Map:


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